Whether you are manufacturing locally or offshore there are some consistant pieces of information that are needed so a pattern maker can accuratly translate the picture you are drawn with the picture in your mind. Although we work mainly from sketches, discussions and inspiration images, key measurement points are also something to include in your design brief.
If you are in a business that relies very heavily on certain measurements, you must let your pattern maker know. For example is your armhole drop is always 26cm then this is something that a pattern maker will need for effective communication of the finished product.
Although having said that we probably don’t need as many measurements as you think. Any good pattern maker worth their weight will have fantastic blocks that they have nurtured through years of fitting garments so dont worry about armhole drops or shoulder drops. the meaurements that help are those styling measurements that are not always obvious on a sketch. Length of a garment from HPS (high point shoulder), Sleeve length from CB neck, or the width at bust, waist and hip. You can leave the rest for us to create.
In the beginning, your key measurements will be created together with your patternmaker, and they will be fairly basic. They may sound a bit like- the hip should not be smaller than 100cm circ on a size 10 or the bicep should not be smaller than 11cm on the 1/2. As your customer fan base grows they will know you for a certain fit, and they will also give you helpful feedback.
To start with, decide on length measurement and neckline drop measurements (see our previous post for some tips on deciding what these are for your target market). For length measurements you can also refer to a favourite piece of clothing, clothing made by another label liked by your target market – or customers of The Sample Room can use the charts we have put together over the years.
As your business grows you will create a list of minimum bicep, across shoulder, sleeve length, thigh, and leg length. These will be different depending on the body shape you are designing for. For minimum measurements on hip, across shoulder, bicep, length- if it important to your customer, it is important to us. Measurements are also a process of discovery, starting with research of other brands and a best guess approach and ending with a great relationship between you, your loyal customers, and your pattern maker.
Don’t worry too much about this before your first meeting. We are happy to guide you until you start to create your own chart. Creating a toile and fitting to a house model will also give you feedback on these measurements, and we’ll talk more about these in future posts.
If you would like to know more about how Sample Room can help you with getting the fit right then please give us a call on 03 9041 3488 or an email at firstname.lastname@example.org
You might also like to have a look at our sister site www.patternroom.com.au . This website is full of pattern created and fitted by obssessive pattern makers.
Julia and the team at Sample Room