I will miss the mentoring call this week as I am in India to short list a manufacturer. Here are three questions on pattern making I’m hoping you can respond to here for me so I can check your responses as I travel around the country.
Question 1 : When working with customised printed fabric or customised loom fabric. In Kathleen Fasanella’s book on sewn product manufacturing she writes this …
“Dump all sketches on the pattern maker at one time.
Sometimes you will want certain styles first, due to special needs. For example, custom loomed fabrics. Since the pattern is made according to the fabric, a dummied pattern is needed before the fabric design is finalised.” She then goes on to talk about the risks of fabric availability and says “Let the pattern maker decide the order in which patterns are to be made”.
Considering that I will be using the Sample Room’s pattern making service, I just wanted to check if
a) You prefer to work with a fabric swatch (grey fabric) and cut the pattern before the fabric design is finalised?
b) Should I be printing my illustrations on the fabric and then we cut the pattern?
I assumed b) but Kathleen’s advise has confused me now.
Question 2: I’m confused where I should make the samples.
Would you recommend :
a) Pattern making and developing a prototype or toile with the Sample Room… Then perfecting the toile and then getting the sample done by the manufacturer?
b) Pattern making, developing a prototype or toile and doing sampling with the Sample Room. Followed by another sample done by the manufacturer? Most of the manufacturers I am meeting offer the sample making service and I feel it is key to check the quality of the sample before hitting the GO button with them. But is it necessary if we have perfected the pattern?
Depending a) or b), at what stage and more importantly WHERE should I consider developing a block from my brand and undertake grading? With the manufacturer or Sample Room?
Question 3 : As a pattern making service, what sort of information do you need to know from the manufacturer? I recall you mentioning in the last call that you need info on how they prefer to receive the pattern (computerised or card print)? Do you need information on the machines they use or anything else?